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Features The Oils of Liguria- Robin Shuckburgh Grape Varieties - Gamay Staff Profile - Richard Wallace-Jones The Mason Arms - South Leigh Features Winter 2005 Navajas Wines Diary of a Project - Pt 2 No bores in Chianti - Robin Shuckburgh Grape Varieties - Cabernet Staff Profile - Al Hawtin No 12 Restaurant - Cheltenham Previous Issues Autumn 2005 Summer 2005 Spring 2005 Winter 2004 Autumn 2004 Summer 2004
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either love it or you hate it – I love it!! Let me emphasise right from the start that this is not a country pub but a very individual restaurant. You would not be expected to pop in just for a drink – unless you know Gerry very well – but to eat. This pub/restaurant is more like a gentlemen’s club: quite dark with pictures covering every inch of the wall. What I love is the pure political incorrectness of it all. Gerry advertises that children are not welcome, vegetarians are by appointment only, mobile phones are not allowed and that he has a particular aversion to media restaurant critics. He has gained massive publicity from Michael Winner describing the restaurant as the “tackiest pub in Great Britain” and the Telegraph suggesting “it is probably the most expensive pub in Britain.” Michael Winner and Gerry certainly didn’t hit it off but this is mostly because Gerry would not bow down to the self important Winner. Yet the place is regularly frequented by Raymond Blanc and celebrities are often seen sipping what Gerry describes as “the best Bloody Mary in England.” You are encouraged to smoke cigars – God knows what is going to happen next summer with the smoking ban but I have an inkling..........! You are likely to be thrust a vintage Armagnac or Cognac whether you like it or not and the wine list which for years was just French has now radically branched out to include Italy and Spain. It was in this capacity that I last had lunch there. A select few of us were tasting through a range of top class Italian wines to add to his list. Gerry had been roasting some lamb over the open fire all morning and it was quite delicious served simply with potatoes and carrots. This was followed by a selection of cheeses, with which he served a Beaujolais, one of his house wines. This I considered a strange choice but it tasted delicious and so refreshing after the heavy Italian reds. The fruit was pure and the taste simple and only Gerry could do this. He has been buying this directly from France for many years and as with many other products he builds up good long term relationships with his suppliers. He’s not prepared to compromise on quality and as he says “the food we serve is simply the best and our quality is remembered long after the price is forgiven”. Gerry doesn’t do credit cards – only Amex – so insure you have cash or your cheque book with you. We got caught out a few years ago when a supplier (who was paying) didn’t have the means to pay but Gerry simply suggested that I put a cheque in the post – no address required, no security but just a knowing trust that it would be done. This place is definitely worth a visit. You won’t be rushed, you will be well fed and watered by Gerry’s almighty hand and one way or another you will definitely remember you have been there! South Leigh is not far from Eynsham and Stanton Harcourt. You can arrive at the Mason Arms by helicopter or indeed by Hispano-Suiza, Bugatti and Ferrari (Gerry is a car and motorbike fanatic); if this is the case you will be guaranteed a free drink. Paul Lister |
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