| Features Summer 2008 Wine Snobbery Features Winter 2007 Previous Issues Winter 2006 |
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The Oxford English Dictionary The noble Art of Sabrage The fun and, sometimes the mishaps, start with the novice sabrage. The candidate is rewarded for the historic effort by being made a Sabreur of the Confrérie. But…. Indeed the vital refreshment after this action is rewarded with other sabreurs opening bottles and soon the party is in full swing and swim! This first sabrage is essential for the novice to experience; it brings confidence so that the next sabrage – to become a Chevalier-Sabreur, is carried out with panache and savoir-faire, or at least more so than the first time. The mishaps are very infrequent. A popular one is the 'Ring Bounce'. This happens when the sabreur fails to follow through the action and the sabre skims off the annulus at the top of the bottle underneath the cork. Usually some glass is chipped away and the bottle has to be turned slightly, so that the sabreur can have another go at sabraging the bottle. Sometimes after several chippings and no popping, the cork has worked its way loose enough to fly away without the sabre dislodging it. We call this 'Premature Ejaculation Champenois.' Another favourite mishap seems to be special to male sabreurs. This is the 'Ultimate Flop'. In spite of advising the novice that the sliding of the sabre along the glass should be elegant, firm and yet gentle because the bottle is cold and under pressure, he applies considerable testosterone to his sabrage. This is perhaps an attempt to demonstrate his masculinity to the audience or he simply doesn’t believe how easy it is and, practically, effortless; thus he applies more force than necessary and, what is bad news, he takes the sabre off the bottle and instead of sliding upwards towards the glass annulus he bangs the sabre down on the glass with a terrible result. The cold brittle bottle with precious champagne inside explodes, sending chunks of glass everywhere and showers the Maître-Sabreur and the novice, deluges the area and, what is very sad, leaves us with no champagne to drink. In nearly 5,000 sabrages I have known a handful of bottles to collapse under pressure when it has not been due to the sabreur’s action. This often happens with clear glass, such as used in Rosé champagne. Green glass seems to be sturdier. We now actually discourage sabrage of clear glass bottles. Louis Roederer Cristal is the exception, due to the manufacture of that bottle. My own sabrages of pink in magnums have had a mixed result. Photographed below with a successful one in Paris. But at The Boar’s Head at Ardington I sustained a few glass cuts to my hands. I now open the pink champagne that is in clear glass bottles the conventional way. Not one for Jonny Wilkinson However, I hasten to repeat that in nearly 5,000 sabrages, these accidents are rare. We carry out a Risk Assessment. An official one was done for the Wine Show in London. It is between Zero and Level One. The only danger is really if you are in the firing line, other than some liquid on the floor that might cause one to slip. Both of these potential snags are easily overcome. Your maître-sabreur will ensure that there is an angle of 30° on either side of the firer and that the bottle is aimed at a dead spot with no one in the line of fire. A good tip to avoid spillage; the bottle should be at 3° Celsius and held at around 30–45° from horizontal, so that the cork flies upwards and away. When the cork flies, do not adjust the bottle angle or otherwise this encourages the champagne to react from its cold slumber and effervesce all over your carpet. Hold it steady for that brief moment after sabrage. As you progess in your (daily) task of sabraging champagne, add more elegance by lifting the bottle higher and using the sabre’s blade at about 8 inches from the point, and it is wrist action – not a whole sweep of the arm. After a couple of dozen bottles you will be superb. Progress to magnums and then the jeroboam at Christmas (or Easter, or Pancake day, or whenever, come to think of it). The popularity of champagne and champagne related events continue unabated. We in the Confrérie du Sabre d’Or have made a great contribution by adding fun to the enjoyment of champagne, as well as making it the drink for any occasion. Sabrage is a great way to liven up any proceedings or to close a deal. It still is one of the best ways of having fun, whilst fully clothed.
Sometimes after several chippings and no popping, the cork has worked its way loose enough to fly away without the sabre dislodging it. We call this ‘Premature Ejaculation Champenois’ After a career in the military Julian White joined the wine trade and is an agent for a number of wine chateaux and domaines in France. He received his appointment as British Ambassador for the Confrérie du Sabre d’Or in 1999 in Paris and was made a Chevalier-Sabreur. He started the British Chapter of this organisation and held the first Gala event in London. Julian, who is now a Commandeur de la Confrérie, is one of 20 ambassadors of the Order around the world. |
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