Features
Autumn 2005

Guelbenzu Wines

Diary of a Project

Any port in a firestorm - Robin Shuckburgh

Grape Varieties
- Chardonnay


Focus on Brandy

Staff Profile
- Gautam Nagpal

The Eyston Arms- East Hendred, Review

Features
Summer 2005

Palandri Wines

Italian flights of fancy - Robin Shuckburgh

Grape Varieties
- Tempranillo


Focus on Rum

Staff Profile
- Maggie Shaw


The Royal Oak - Ramsden, Review

Previous Issues

Spring 2005

Winter 2004

Autumn 2004


Summer 2004

ABC - Anything But Chardonnay. ABCD - Anything But Chardonnay Darling. “Actually we don’t like Chardonnay...”

What’s happened to Chardonnay? One of the world’s highest quality grape varieties is out of fashion. In some places it’s actually uncool. As Mick Jagger sang about Marianne Faithful: “You’re out of touch my baby, my poor old fashioned baby...” But why the fall from grace? Perhaps because Chardonnay was so in fashion a few years ago and a whole generation virtually grew up on it. And where did most of it come from? Australia. Cheap Aussie Chardy - you couldn’t beat it so everyone joined it - bigtime. So big in fact that some people have had enough and now Pinot Grigio is the new Chardonnay.

In the wine trade we watch these trends come and go. Perhaps the trade got bored with bottom end Aussie Chardonnay before the public did, but as any wine merchant knows there’s Chardonnay - and then there’s Chardonnay. And it’s not just the grape that some people have got bored with, it’s also the heavy oaking that went with a lot of the cheaper end wines - hence the increasing numbers of unoaked Chardonnay that are appearing on the shelves.

Yet Chardonnay produces some of the very best wines produced on the planet as any Burgundy freak will tell you. And when grown in cool locations and not too heavily oaked this grape can produce some sublime wines. Just try this selection I have put together - it might just change your mind about Chardonnay...